Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

It never ceases to amaze me at what dogs will eat. Ask any veterinarian, and they’ll recite a catalogue of the curious items they have removed from the inside of a dog (where, as Mark Twain once said, it’s very dark).

I am reminded of this every spring, which seems to be the official kick-off for the season of Inedible Objects Being Consumed. A few months ago, I was called in one evening to remove a bone from a dog’s mouth. This happens more often than you might think. Most often a piece of the bone gets lodged on the roof of the mouth between the large chewing teeth in the back. And it’s amazing how tightly they can get stuck. Even more amazing is that some dogs don’t complain about it — you’ll never even see it unless you crank the mouth way open to look for it. I’ve encountered several cases that were only discovered when the stench of the dog’s breath became unbearable.

This bone, however, was a bit different. It was one of the round, hollow kind, and somehow this poor guy — who came into the clinic wagging his tail, but looking a bit embarrassed — had managed to get it stuck around the bottom of his chin. It was absolutely clamped around his lower jaw and lodged behind the canine teeth. His owners had been working at it for some time, but had finally given up.

To make everyone’s life easier, I gave him a light sedation and something to relieve the pain. I figured then I’d be able to give the bone a little twist and slip it right off — looking terribly clever in the process. Well, you know what they say about pride before a fall. Even with the dog completely immobile, the bone remained as lodged tightly as ever.

Finally, since nothing else was working, I pulled out our cast cutter and sawed the bone in half. Worked like a charm — but I swore the owners to secrecy, since this is most definitely NOT the intended use for the cast cutting saw, a piece of equipment that runs about $800. My boss would not have been pleased. (Though I did, guiltily, ‘fess up later, and he took it with good humor.)

To this day, I have no idea how the dog managed to get a bone wedged on there so tightly that it had to be cut off. Seems almost impossible that this could have happened by accident.

There have also been other more common items. Fish hooks, for example are a problem in this part of B.C. during the summer. Often stuck through a lip, on the nose, or hooked on the tongue. Once in a while, a dog will even swallow one. Which is a really good reason to not take your dog on a fishing trip if you like using hot dogs for bait.

One of my most memorable cases involved a really nice dog — a standard poodle named Sam — who swallowed some very  . . .  well, let’s say racy women’s lingerie. Twice. Now, when an owner has to pay a hefty vet bill for surgery, they naturally expect to see what you’ve retrieved. Usually it’s a child’s toy, a piece of a ball, a rock — regular stuff. When it’s something from the Victoria’s Secret catalogue, that makes for an awkward moment in the consult room. The first words the client uttered upon seeing this wildly coloured piece of mangled lace? “Those aren’t mine!”

Fortunately for all concerned, she had a sense of humor and a generous limit on her VISA card, because Sam would repeat his performance just a few months later. This time, neither one of us was surprised. The odd part was that he never left the fenced backyard of her rented house, except on a leash. The only thing we could figure is that a former renter must have buried the evidence of an indiscretion in the backyard, only to have Sam unearth the remains of the affair.

Mind you, this case one pales by comparison with one I happened to read about. The owner turned the house upside down searching for a pager. Finally, in frustration, the owner dialed the number, and began removing all the sofa cushions. Suddenly, the ringing could be heard. And when the owner’s dog, dislodged from its perch on the sofa, left the room … the ringing did, too. Go figure.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

Last time I discussed one of my favourite topics: senior pets. Having had several of these in my own life, and having seen countless others in my veterinary practice, I have particular soft spot for the older pet who’s given many years of loyal companionship.

In the not-so-distant past, we had to resign ourselves to the fact that old age  — for pets and people — meant decreased activity, increased stiffness and, quite often, chronic pain. Happily, this is no longer the case. For our aging pets, as for ourselves, there are now many options available to help make life more comfortable.

As a veterinarian, I believe the first hurdle is recognizing that your pet may be in pain. Human beings, as a species, are a pretty whiny bunch. We’re all too pleased to share the details of our slightest aches and pains with anyone willing to listen. Our pets, though? Not so much. Mother Nature designs animals with a built-in instinct to hide pain or illness. In the wild, any creature who lets it be known that he or she is hurting stands a pretty good chance of becoming somebody’s lunch.

So when I see a pet that is less active or engaged with their owner, that shows signs of stiffness, sleeps excessively or (in the case of dogs) pants a great deal, I’m going to assume that the animal is in pain. I would rather err on the side of compassion than allow the pet to suffer in silence.

So let’s say you and the vet have concluded that your senior pet may be suffering from chronic pain, caused by a condition such as arthritis. Now what? Often, the only way to know for certain is to treat the pet for pain.

For dogs, there exists a wide range of safe and highly effective pain-relieving medications. Many were developed specifically for long-term use on animals with chronic pain. And their impact on a dog’s quality of life can be profound. I love hearing from owners about old dogs that are getting into trouble again: climbing up on that white couch reserved for company or chasing the neighbour’s cat. Acting years younger, in other words.

When prescribing medication for an older pet, your vet will likely recommend bloodwork to make certain there isn’t an underlying problem with the the liver or kidneys. Since most medications are processed through these organs, it’s important to confirm that they are functioning properly.

For senior cats, the choices are more limited. Cats have a very different metabolism from dogs or humans, and medications must be selected carefully to meet their needs without causing undesirable side effects. Still, there are a number of excellent options for pain control in felines, and many cats can be made quite comfortable with medication that needs only to be given a few times a week.

Glucosamine chondroitin, a naturally-occurring supplement with anti-inflammatory properties, works well to ease joint pain and increase flexibility in both dogs and cats. SAM-e and fish oils may have similar benefits and offer a more holistic approach to pain management. Your veterinarian can also administer a series of injections of a naturally-derived product that helps to lubricate joints and maintain joint health.

Veterinary acupuncture is a field gaining wider acceptance and becoming increasingly popular with pet owners. Acupuncture can promote relaxation, improve overall functioning, and reduce pain and stress. A further advantage is the absence of adverse side effects.

Pet massage, heat and cold therapies, rehabilitation exercises and therapeutic ultrasound are also excellent ways to help your pet. Owners can learn how to perform some of these techniques themselves, so that treatment can be done in the comfort of home — something many senior pets appreciate.

One consideration that owners of elderly pets sometimes overlook is the home environment. Take a look around the house or apartment from your pet’s point of view. Older kitties still love to observe their world from high places, but often can’t get up to that ledge or bookshelf because they can’t jump or climb anymore. A non-slip ramp or stack of cushions leading up to a favourite perch will be very welcome.

Older dogs, especially larger ones, tend to land hard on their elbows when they lie down. Thick, padded bedding is more comfortable and will help prevent callous formation and pressure sores on bony joint areas.

Finally, bear in mind that regular activity slows the aging process — for people as well as pets. Even if they can’t travel far, senior dogs still benefit from a daily walk. Older cats, similarly, can be coaxed into a play session with an engaging toy. Pet stores and online suppliers offer all manner of light-up and moving toys that even the grumpiest old felines find hard to resist. A few daily dashes across the living room or down the hall will help prevent muscle wasting and keep joints mobile.

Secreting a few treats around the house or yard for your dog or cat to search for is another good way to encourage activity and provide mental stimulation. Hunting for food is a deeply ingrained behaviour that animals retain throughout their lives — and old noses stay sharp and sensitive even after hearing and sight have diminished.

Inevitably, the end comes for all of us. But the last years of your pet’s life can be a time to treasure — and afterward, you can take comfort in knowing you did everything possible to make that time the best it could be.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

When you share your life with a beloved pet, the years fly by all too quickly. One day your children come home with a tiny kitten they found under the neighbour’s porch. In no time, those same kids are attending university and that endearing kitten is a long-treasured member of your family.

The good news is that our pets are living longer than ever. Thanks to vaccinations and improvements in veterinary care, many domestic animals now live well into their teens — and a few even reach a third decade.

It’s important to remember that pets age on a different timeline than their owners. The adage about one human year equaling seven pet years really only applies to a fairly narrow range in the life of a dog or cat. If you think of human aging as a diagonal line, pet aging looks more like bell curve. There is a comparatively short youth, followed by a much more rapid progression of old age.

Cats and small breeds of dog mature quite rapidly, generally reaching physical and sexual maturity between 9 and 12 months of age. So a year-old cat or small dog is essentially at the same stage of life as your typical high school senior. (Parents of teenagers may wish their own kids could sail though adolescence in a few short months!) Larger breeds of dog may take anywhere from 18 months to two years to reach maturity.

From there, pets tend to age fairly uniformly — but by the age of six or seven years, the aging process again begins to vary widely. Among giant breeds of dogs, for example, ages eight to 10 are the geriatric years. Many of these lovely breeds, sadly, do not live into their teens.

For healthy cats and most other dogs, however, these years represent the prime of life. Indeed, cats and some toy breed dogs may be well into their early or mid teens before owners start to notice the physical signs typical of advancing age. On the other hand, larger dogs — such as retrievers, shepherd-type breeds and others of similar size — will begin to show signs of aging earlier.

Regardless of their chronological age, once pets reach their geriatric years they begin to show the same kinds of physical changes that we see in ourselves as the retirement years approach.

Many owners become concerned when they notice the cloudy blue haze that sometimes appears in the eyes of older dog or cat. It shouldn’t be cause for alarm, though. If there’s no sign of discharge or redness, and no evidence (such as blinking or rubbing) to suggest it’s causing pain, then what you’re seeing is likely just a natural consequence of advancing age — a gradual hardening of the lens of the eye, which is the structure that allows us to adjust our sight for fine motor tasks. Unless your pets like to read or do needlepoint, they won’t be troubled by it.

A progressive loss of hearing is another common sign of aging; it may even afford a degree of comfort to a senior pet, as it does help turn down the volume if the household is a particularly boisterous. Owners, however, sometimes find it a bit distressing to discover that their pets don’t always come when called anymore. (Then, again, if you have cats you’re probably used to being ignored.)

Arthritis in geriatric pets is as common as it is among senior citizens. If you live long enough, the years of wear and tear on your joints begin to add up. The joints become less flexible — and in advanced cases can cause quite a lot of pain. Cats and dogs usually signal this pain through a decrease in their normal activities, or a reluctance to do things they used to do, such as jumping up on a bed or climbing stairs. Dogs suffering from chronic pain may pant even when they are neither hot nor tired. Pets may also sleep excessively to escape the discomfort.

Some changes in behaviour can indicate a potentially serious health issue. Owners of senior pets should be especially alert for any change in appetite. An animal that gradually loses its appetite or that must be coaxed into eating with treats should see a veterinarian. The change may be caused by infected, loose or painful teeth, or may signal the nausea resulting by an internal organ problem. Cats or dogs that eat voraciously but still lose weight might be suffering from diabetes, kidney disease or even cancer. Excessive thirst is also a warning sign. It’s a common symptom of several serious but treatable diseases.

Keep an eye out for these signs. Pets, like people, stand the the best chance of recovery when illness is diagnosed in the early stages.

Next time, we’ll discuss ways to help keep your aging pets happy and comfortable in their twilight years. There is nothing quite so comforting as the warmth of a old cat snoozing in your lap, or a loving look from the faithful, grey-muzzled dog you’ve raised from a rambunctious pup. There are many things you can do to make sure this will be a wonderful time for both of you.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

CBC Radio recently aired the story of a dog named Rivers, who disappeared from his fenced backyard and was recently returned to his owner after being found in Calgary, Alberta. Not really headline material — until you learn that Rivers was lost four years ago. And that his owners live in Arkansas.

No one knows how or why this Labrador retriever found his way across the border. Does he have a passport? (Where would he keep it?) Rivers has not been forthcoming with the details; doubtless he’s holding out for a big cheque from one of the tabloids.

What we do know is this: Rivers is back home with his owner today because he happens to have a microchip.

Microchip technology has come a long way in recent years, and has become one of the best tools available for helping owners to keep their pets safe.

Other methods for identifying and tracking pets do exist, but they have their limitations. In many parts of Canada, a tattoo is placed on the inside of the right ear when an animal is spayed or neutered, allowing the pet to to be traced back to the clinic that originally performed the surgery. However, if the animal changes owners, or if the the owner moves, this may not be particularly helpful for identification. Tattoos can also fade or become illegible over time.

Collar identification is important too, but collars can easily be lost or removed. (If you do rely on collar ID, make sure to include an emergency contact, in case you have an accident and cannot be reached, or become separated from your pet while traveling.)

The microchip has two big advantages over both of these other forms of identification: it is permanent and unalterable. The chip is placed under the skin between the shoulder blades, via a simple procedure quite similar to a vaccination. When read by a scanner, the chip — which is no larger than a grain of rice — emits a unique number that is registered with the microchip company. If your pet goes missing, you can contact the company by telephone any time of day or night, 365 days a year.

Unlike a collar tag, a microchip cannot be lost. If your contact information changes, or if the pet is sold or given to someone else, all it takes is a quick call to the company to get the records updated immediately. Microchipping your pet also provides proof of ownership — an important advantage, since photographs and veterinary records aren’t always sufficient in cases where there’s is a legal dispute over custody of an animal.

When your pet is given a microchip, a collar tag comes along with it. If someone finds your lost dog or cat, the collar will alert them to the presence of a chip, and will include an identification number and a telephone number to call.

While a scanner is required to identify the presence of a microchip, these instruments have become increasingly affordable, and most veterinary clinics and animal shelters. can be expected to have one. Most of these facilities, moreover, will scan a pet for no charge. If you’ve brought in a stray, they can also lend a hand in contacting the microchip supplier and locating the rightful owner.

Having a microchip means that if your pet should ever end up in a shelter, the staff will have a much better chance of tracking you down and reuniting you with your lost companion. Veterinary clinic staff usually scan for a microchip immediately when dealing with an unidentified and injured animal. The presence of a microchip can prevent delays in much-needed treatments that legally require an owner’s permission.

Because microchips are so tiny, they can even be placed in reptiles, birds and a host of other exotic animals. Some organizations require a microchip for the registration of certain breeds of horses. And many performance events involving animals also require microchip identification.

For pet owners, a microchip can mean a lifetime of peace of mind. While not all lost-and-found pet stories are quite so dramatic as that of Rivers, microchipping certainly has made for many safe and happy reunions.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

Discovering an unusual growth on your pet’s body can be a scary experience. With so much media attention devoted to the dangers of cancer, the sudden realization that your pet might have a tumor is understandably distressing. Knowing what to look for can help you spot potentially dangerous situations and may even save your pet’s life.

First, a little reassurance: skin growths and lumps that develop below the skin surface are a fairly common occurrence, especially in middle-aged and senior dogs. Many are completely harmless — a cosmetic issue, at worst.

As pets age, changes occur in the skin that can cause an overgrowth of skin cells — commonly referred to as skin tags. Some dogs, especially smaller breeds such as poodles and spaniels, are also prone to plugged-up oil glands or hair follicles. These cyst-like growths may be unsightly, but they’re not problematic unless they break open and become irritated or bleed.

Larger breeds, particularly retrievers, are prone to fatty tumors beneath the skin or within muscle tissue. These fat deposits, called lipomas, are soft and can rapidly grow quite large. Lipomas can cause discomfort if they interfere with the animal’s movement, or if their size causes the overlying skin to stretch. In very rare instances, fatty tumors can prove malignant, behaving like more aggressive types of cancerous growths.

So when should you become concerned?

First, beware of growths that look like wounds but don’t heal. This is particularly true for cats. Tumors of the ears, nose and face may begin as reddened, scabbed areas rather than lumps.

Just like people, pets can suffer from melanomas: malignant growths of skin pigment cells. (White-faced animals, like fair-skinned people, are particularly prone to these skin tumors.) Melanomas tend to dark or black in colour, but may also be pale or pink. When these tumors occur in or around the mouth or feet, they can be extremely aggressive, and may spread to the lungs or bone. If you find a mass fitting this description, an immediate trip to the vet is called for.

A mast cell tumor is another common type of cancer — one that can be particularly deceiving. Mast cell tumors generally occur on or under the skin. They tend to be small and grow slowly, sometimes over a period of months or even longer. They look unimpressive, so many owners simply don’t realize how dangerous they can be. These tumors release histamine — the same chemical that the body produces in response to an insect bite or sting — so you may notice your pet scratching or chewing at the area. The lump may also be red, and may vary in size — becoming smaller over time, then growing larger. Again, schedule a visit with your veterinarian as soon as possible. Left untreated, these tumors can become extremely aggressive, potentially spreading to internal organs.

Female dogs and cats that have not been spayed, or that have been spayed later in life, stand a higher risk of developing breast cancer. These tumors occur on the belly, often starting out as firm growths under the skin that feel like tiny pebbles. They can multiply rapidly, and may spread to the lungs or lymph nodes.

Cats are less likely than dogs to develop abnormal growths — but those tumors that do occur are more likely to be cancerous. Some of the most aggressive types of tumors are deceptively innocent in appearance, so a good rule of thumb is to have any growth on your cat checked out as soon as possible. Don’t wait to see if the mass grows. Early diagnosis and treatment can be critical to preventing the advancement of the disease.

If you’ve found an unusual growth, make a point of marking the location prior to the examination. You’d be surprised how often a readily noticeable lump will seem to move or disappear once you’re in the vet’s office — especially if you happen to have a large or long-haired animal. Clip the hair short in the vicinity of the lump, or use a permanent marker on a light-coloured pet. Lipstick also works well and is easy to remove.

For a definitive diagnosis of any abnormal growth, you must arrange a veterinary exam. But your sharp eyes and vigilance are also key to ensuring early diagnosis and successful treatment.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Our hearts were a tiny bit broken the other day when we came across the story of Napoleon, a lively Boston terrier from White Plains, New York who’s had a rough time of it — he was recently forced to undergo emergency surgery to remove his left eye, apparently the result of an unfortunate misdiagnosis. You can find out more at his Web site, Napoleon’s Story.

Napoleon’s human, Chelle, is hosting a benefit this Friday March 30 to raise funds to cover veterinary costs, and you can get involved by making an online bid in the silent auction. Check out the auction items and place your bids HERE.

Our hearts go out to this little guy, and on behalf of The Pet Network family, we wish him health and happiness.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

With Easter coming up and spring planting to follow soon after, now is a good time to take inventory of the plants in your house and give thought to what you might be growing in the yard or garden this summer.

Cats and dogs are curious creatures, especially the young ones, and some pets just cannot resist a taste of any greenery that may be within reach. Many of the most common houseplants are toxic if ingested by animals. For example: lilies, which are so popular during the Easter season, contain a toxin that is especially dangerous for cats. Ingesting even a few leaves of the plant has been reported to cause fatal kidney failure.

There are dozens of types of houseplants that can be poisonous to pets, and it’s important to remember that some parts of a plant may contain particularly high concentrations of the toxin. Many flowering bulbs fall into this category. When the ground thaws in the spring, some dogs are inclined to dig vigorously to investigate all the wonderful smells and treasures that have been lurking for months beneath the snow. The discovery and ingestion of a newly sprouting flower bulb can result in one very ill canine.

Certain plants may become more toxic as they wilt or dry out, so take care to dispose promptly of any dropped leaves or remnants of pruning. Other plants have non-toxic leaves, but poisonous roots or rhizomes. And many common flower and plant seeds are also toxic to pets. The fruit of the apple, for instance, is perfectly edible — but the leaves, stems and seeds actually contain cyanide. The pit of many fruits, including apricots and avocados, also contain this toxin. Meanwhile, onions and members of the onion family (including garlic) contain a chemical that can cause the breakdown of red blood cells.

Incidentally, dogs and cats are not the only susceptible pets: house rabbits, guinea pigs, birds and pocket pets should all be closely monitored when they are allowed access to areas with plants.

In many cases, the consequences of ingesting a toxic plant are limited to the various forms of gastric upset, such as drooling, vomiting or diarrhea. Irritation of the mouth is also common. In certain situations, however, the result can be heart arrhythmias, seizures and even fatal organ failure. The ASPCA has an extensive Web site that lists both toxic and non-toxic indoor and outdoor plants and flowers. You will likely find nearly all the plants in your house described there in detail. Know what’s dangerous and what’s not: your pet will be safer, and you’ll enjoy peace of mind.

CLICK HERE for the ASPCA’s comprehensive guide to toxic and non-toxic plants.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

Our recent online survey has shown that an overwhelming majority of you are opposed to the keeping of wild animals as pets. As a veterinarian and a former zookeeper, I wholeheartedly agree. Regardless of where they live, there are immense differences between a “tame” or captive animal and a truly domesticated one.

Domestication is a long, gradual process that involves far more than the “taming” and keeping of individual animals. In the case of the dog, this evolution has been going on for about 10,000 years. We know from DNA evidence that dogs descended from wolves, but newer theories have changed dramatically our understanding of how this likely happened.

We used to think that early humans must have raised orphaned wolf cubs, and that the descendants of those animals evolved into our domestic dogs. The problem with this theory is that it doesn’t explain why, even after generations of being raised in captivity, wild wolves don’t become domestic wolves. It also ignores the fact that, in primitive societies, food was a scarce and guarded resource. The idea that early humans would have voluntarily added another mouth to feed seems highly improbable. Wild wolves almost certainly represented danger and competition for food, not working companions. Moreover, we know that generations of other wild species raised in the company of humans, such as large cats or primates, do not become domesticated.

Turns out that the ancestors of our modern dogs likely played an active role in the domestication process. It is now believed that some wolves, as a result of naturally occurring genetic variations, were less wary of humans than were their relatives. These wolves probably approached the hunting and living areas of humans more readily, taking advantage of discarded or unattended food sources. More food meant an advantage in the struggle for survival, and a better chance to breed and produce surviving offspring.

Insightful humans may also have seen the advantage of following wolves to find prey. And they may have realized that the protective company of a predator made them less likely to become dinner for other animals.

This helps to explain the significant differences we see today between wolves and dogs. While wolves are predators, feral or semi-wild dogs tend to be scavengers. In a wolf pack, breeding is restricted to only the alpha pair, while dogs breed indiscriminately. And social structure within a dog pack (or a dog and human pack) tends to be flexible. Changes in pack order, or the social position of pack members, occurs readily and usually with little conflict. Changes of status within a wolf pack, by contrast, most often require the death or removal of a pack member.

The special qualities of dogs that make them uniquely suited for life with humans actually represent a genetic retention of juvenile characteristics. That is to say, a pet dog more closely resembles a wolf cub than a “tame” wolf. Interestingly, these behavioural traits are also linked to a number of physical traits that we see in adult domestic dogs but not wild canines: floppy ears, blunt faces, curly tails, and large white patches or a piebald (spotted) pattern. An experiment in Siberia on silver foxes, spanning the greater part of fifty years, clearly illustrated this phenomenon. Researchers seeking to breed tame foxes that were easier to handle succeeded in doing so within a few generations; in the process, however, they also changed significantly the foxes’ physical appearance and biochemical physiology.

When people attempt to keep wild animals as pets, the dramatic impact of that centuries of domestication have had become clear. While things may go fairly smoothly when the animal is young, things often fall apart once the normal changes that accompany sexual maturity begin to manifest themselves. Previously gentle youngsters begin to exhibit typical adult behaviours. In captivity they become aggressive, unpredictable and, in the case of carnivores, highly predatory.

Wild animals will behave this way, regardless of their upbringing, because they are genetically programmed to do so. Domestic animals are a result of genetic changes: selective breeding for not only physical traits, but for the behavioural traits that make them compatible for life with humans.

Each day, millions of us interact with our pets happily and safely. They live in our cities and farms, and share our homes. They ride in our cars, play with our children, and bring comfort to the elderly, ill and infirm. We trust them to carry us safely on their backs, to lead the visually impaired, and to give lifesaving assistance to law enforcement and military personnel. We don’t often stop to think how amazing it is that such different creatures have come together for their mutual benefit.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

Adding a cat to your household can be a joyous occasion  – and a little preparation can go a long way toward ensuring the success of this new relationship. Maybe you’ve been planning for the new arrival for quite some time. Or maybe a lonely stray found her way to your front porch. In either case, a visit to your family veterinarian should probably be your first step.

Stray cats and kittens, as well as cats from a shelter, should be examined for signs of illness before being brought into your household. Problems to watch for include upper respiratory infections (which may look like a cold), eye infections and other diseases. A blood test may also be advisable, to check for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV). These are diseases that depress the immune system and can have fatal consequences. Cats may carry these diseases for years without showing any outward signs, and mothers can pass on the infection to their kittens. Your veterinarian will also check for parasites such as roundworms, tapeworms and ear mites. He or she can let you know what vaccinations are needed, and can provide information about spaying and neutering as well.

Even if you purchase your kitten from a breeder, it’s still recommended that you make a timely visit to a veterinarian for a physical exam and all the appropriate vaccinations. Be certain to research your breed of choice carefully before buying, as some purebred cats are prone to genetic conditions that may cause kidney, heart or respiratory issues.

If you have no other pets, a new feline friend is pretty low maintenance. Most kittens virtually house train themselves when given easy access to a clean litter box. Keep in mind, though, that individual cats may have different preferences when it comes to the type of litter, and many dislike scented litter. Not surprisingly, cats would rather have their food and water dishes placed away from the litter box. And who can blame them — would you want to eat in your bathroom?

If you do have other animals in the house — particularly other cats — the introduction process can be a little trickier. Keep in mind that cats are territorial by nature, and will identify their personal space by marking — urine being the preferred mode of communication. You can help to avoid turf wars by providing each pet with his or her own feeding and elimination areas. The general rule: have one more litter box than you have cats.

Cats moving into a new environment also need safe resting and hiding areas. Try to provide elevated locations where cats can climb to observe activity from above. This allows them to acclimate more readily, while reducing their need to hide in closets or under beds.

Pheromone products are available that may also help to reduce stress. You can spray these in areas of the house where the cats reside, or buy plug-in dispensers that work much like a household air freshener. Keeping everybody’s claws trimmed short will help to avoid injuries if a newcomer does have a difference of opinion with an incumbent.

Cats and kittens have an amazing tolerance for rough handling from toddlers and younger children. They will endure a great deal of unintentional abuse, and will generally resort to escape rather than defending themselves with teeth or claws. For this reason, it is important that youngsters be taught how to handle their new pet gently and appropriately. With vigilant parental supervision, even pre-school children can take some responsibility for the care of the new family member. (Cats especially like fresh water, so youngsters can perhaps take on the task of replenishing the water dish several times a day.) Make sure the kitten’s needs have been tended to before the child sits down to eat breakfast or dinner.

Finally, remember that cats and kittens are curious creatures, and will investigate anything new and interesting. Be sure to keep doors and windows closed or screened off to prevent escape. Craft materials such as yarn, thread or ribbon can be extremely hazardous if swallowed. Take inventory of your houseplants, and check to make certain that your cat doesn’t have access to any plants that might be toxic. When choosing cat toys, try to find those that are durable, and don’t let your cat play with delicate toys unsupervised — there’s always a risk of ingesting small parts. Interactive battery-operated toys are a great way for your kitten to burn off excess energy, and food-puzzle toys help to channel hunting instincts in a constructive way.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.

Posted by Dr. Pamela Barker

We all want the very best for our pets — but these days it seems that our pets may be getting too much of a good thing, in the form of food and treats. Obesity in dogs and cats has reached epidemic proportions in recent years. No longer required to burn calories by hunting game, herding livestock or ridding the farm of unwanted rodents, most pets are now creatures of leisure. Little energy is expended lounging on the couch, and modern pet foods are densely packed with protein, fats and carbohydrates. For many pets, this combination of dietary excess and inactivity is a recipe for disaster.

Really, though, what’s a few extra pounds? How bad can that be? Turns out, over the course of the pet’s lifetime, it can have serious — sometimes fatal — consequences.

First, let’s put things in perspective. Let’s say your 5.5 kg (12-pound) pet should actually weigh closer to 4.5 kg (10 pounds). That’s only one little kilogram, right? But for your pet, that’s an extra 20 percent on top of their ideal weight. That’s the equivalent of adding 30 extra pounds on a person who should weigh about 150 pounds. In my practice, I commonly see 45 kg dogs whose ideal body weight should be around 34 kg. These poor dogs are tired, sore and don’t like to do much. And no wonder! It’s like a person carrying around a 40 pound backpack, 24/7.

And the story is even worse for those dogs with short legs and long backs — the extra weight on their frame puts tremendous stress on the spine. Think of it as being like putting several pairs of wet jeans on a coat hanger. The vertebral column sags and puts pressure on the soft disks between the bones. This crushing effect causes pain, arthritis of the spine and — not uncommonly — paralysis. This condition, known as intervertebral disk disease, often requires expensive surgery to prevent permanent paralysis.

Cats don’t get off so easily, either. Excess weight in these pets — just as in humans and in dogs —dramatically raises the risk of diabetes. And diabetic pets require the same kind of treatment as diabetic people. They must receive insulin injections at strictly spaced intervals, usually once or twice a day. Their blood sugar must be monitored frequently (yes, with a needle!), and they must eat special food when they receive their medication. And, since there is no known cure for diabetes, the disease must be managed for life. Some lucky felines — if they are diagnosed early and their blood sugar is brought under control quickly — will go into remission. Even these cats, however, must be monitored closely for recurrence. And if they remain overweight, the problem may recur.

In addition, overweight cats are at risk of a life-threatening condition called “fatty liver syndrome” or hepatic lipidosis. This can occur quite suddenly when an overweight cat stops eating regularly, for whatever reason. The liver becomes overwhelmed when the cat’s body starts using its stored fat as a source of energy. This process can quickly prove fatal without hospitalization and intensive treatment. Serious cases may require the surgical placement of a feeding tube, which may need to stay in place for weeks until the cat recovers.

As if all this weren’t bad enough, some evidence suggests that overweight animals are more susceptible to certain kinds of cancers. And we know for a fact that one of the best pain-relief remedies for arthritic pets is to maintain them at their ideal body weight.

So how do you know if your pet is overweight? Like watching the grass grow, it can be difficult to notice, since it happens so gradually and we see our pets every day. Plus, our concept of what a slim, fit pet looks like has changed over time. We see so many overweight animals now that it skews our perception of what normal actually looks like.

Determining your pet’s level of fitness — officially known as the Body Condition Score, or BCS — requires a hands-on approach. You need to work your fingers through the coat and feel for fat deposits that indicate that your pet is packing a few extra pounds. There are different BCS scoring charts available online to help guide you through the process.

Your veterinarian is the best resource for determining if your pet’s weight is appropriate, or if there are steps you need to take to help your pet achieve an active, healthy life.

Dr. Pamela Barker is a professional veterinarian with more than 15 years of experience, currently practicing in 100 Mile House, B.C. Her special areas of interest include animal behaviour and training, nutrition and condition for canine athletes, and public education about animal health and care. If you’d like to suggest a topic for one of her future blog posts, please feel free to leave a comment below.